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Time for a new adventure. I am going to hike the 800K of the Carian trail in Mugla Turkey. It's packed with stunning views, impressive rock formations, traditional Turkish villages, tiny beaches and ancient towns. It will be a great challenge.

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The second half from Bayırköy to Taşlıca Köyü was spectacular. Folowing the The Carian trail in Muğla Turkey on the Bozburun peninsula is amazing. Wild camping is what makes this trip special for me.

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The shipyards at Bozburun make this hiking day on The Carian Trail in Muğla spectacular. The famous wooden gulet ships that cruise the coastal waters of Turkey are built here - each are unique and possess individual personalities.

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This 'Kaunos Wall Loop Hike' is a great way to explore nature and enjoy some of the beauty of the antique city of Kaunos near Dalyan. You will see rocktombs, an old fountain and the majestic walls of Kaunos. The great views of this area will amaze you..

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In some villages you can find hand made houses, crafted from woven branches and clad with mud. Workers came from Africa who made their own crude, but beautiful houses Most houses were abandoned in the 1950's. Those remaining are quickly disappearing.

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The first hiking section from Kaş to Ufakdere on The Lycian Way was way more scary than expected. They had warned me for the stretch with the rope hand hold, but to get there was more difficult than the actual rope part. Due to my late start I got stranded in the wild and had to set up camp in the bush.

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Nothing that makes you happy comes that easy - so true on this hike. It was a hard climb up that went on forever - if I had known I would most likely have chickened out and taken the bus, but I did not and my reward was the old storage houses I encountered in the middle of nowhere and giant the trees.

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Day three on the Lycian Way was a day with a very sore hip, a steep decline and very hot. I missed a turn and ended up in the wrong village. A 74 year old man rescued me and I brought me to Sidyma. A must for you to see..

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Some people have a bucket list. I don't, but if I had one then walking the Lycian Way would be on it. After many years I am finally setting foot after foot on the ancient path that linked the Lycian cities in antiquity on the beautiful coast of Turkey.

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If you walk from Dalyan to Çandır the tea garden is like an oasis in the desert. They not only have tea, but cool drinks as well. Have a bite to eat and sit back with friends and relax. All their foods are organically grown - prepared with great care. An excellent way to start a day.

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First Köyceğiz buldozed a road to our beach now they put signposts up along the road . What is the plan? A cafe next? Sunbeds? I sure hope not. I think it's the last beach with road access in the area that is still in its original state.

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Everyone who comes to the Dalyan area will gaze in wonder at the Lycian Kings Tombs. But what most people never get to see are the other Lycian Rock Tombs that are scattered around the area towards Gokbel and Ortaca.

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It is easy to visit the big waterfall at Toparlar, but what about taking a hike up the mountain to get there? It is a fantastic climb with great views and you arrive at a little paradise with a natural pool beneath it to cool off in at the end.

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Discover the beauty of this great waterfall just past Toparlar by Köycegiz. Its a nice spot to spend a hot summer day. Make sure to discover the area behind it, its well worth the small hike especially with kids.

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Eager to make an overnight hike on the ECOtrails we set out for a three day adventure. It was perfect! The first day is section C3a from Dalyan to Sultaniye Hot Springs. We camped at Akdeniz Camping overlooking the lake.

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Smooth drone footage is not as easy as it may seem. One must conquer the fear of crashing, drowning or having the drone disappear into the unknown first. So until I have mastered it, I will have a death-grip on the controls.

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The old village houses are slowly disappearing. Some of them were still occupied until thirty years ago. It was hard on the women to live there with children and everyday making their own yogurt and butter as well as caring for animals.

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Having never been able to produce a good tasting orange wine in the past I decided to try mandarins and found it made a great white wine by adding a touch of ginger to the process.

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When the rain falls for days and days on end what is there to do...? Ellis used the rainy weather to her advantage to make a pine needle basket as a way of saying thanks to Jose for painting the exceptional mural on our front wall.

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There are numerous trails between Çandır and Ekincik - this video shows the old trail which was a part of the Carian Trail and makes use of some of the new EcoTrail route. It is a fairly easy hike for anyone possessing a basic level of fitness.

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Go on a short hike from Çandır to the çeşme on the road to Kaunos and circle around the hills surrounding Çandır and drop back down into the village. An easy hike for almost every level of fitness that makes for a great mornings outing.

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Palmiye Botanical Gardens is a nursery as well as botanical gardens displaying over 40 species of palm trees. The day Ellis visited it was closed and evidently you must call ahead to see if they are open on the day you wish to visit.

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A hike at the ruins of the ancient city of Kaunos to the top of the Acropolis is rewarded with breath-taking views of Çandır, the Mediterranean Sea, Dalyan and the river to the reed-beds and the ruins of the ancient city below.

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At certain times of the year in Turkey the thunderstorms roll in and give everything a good watering. If you happen to be hiking you'll likely get completely drenched if you don't head home. Evidently this was one of those days.

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The river boats in Dalyan offer moonlight cruises out onto Köyceğiz Lake in the evening. They leave around 7pm and cruise out on the lake where passengers can swim and drink a beer while the captain prepares a fine dinner.

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We often take early morning walks here in Çandır down to the little harbor about 15 minutes away from our home. The lighting in the early morning hours creates hues and shades of color that are dazzling in this quiet little.

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One of Ellis's favorite things is to take Timo to Jimmy's Beach/Akdeniz Camping on her motorbike to Köyceğiz Lake. Timo runs around like crazy and comes home entirely knackered out.

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Whenever there is any seismic activity underground it releases sulphur gases into the water and makes it almost glow an emerald green in the lake and the river. The water becomes almost magical.

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You don't neccessarily need a pressure cooker or other costly equipment to put up fresh tomatoes for the winter. In this video Ellis will show you how to put them up to last all winter with a simple method.

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If you have to fly during a pandemic you expect the worst. I had to go to Holland and back in early April. Come along and see what it is like to go from Dalaman to Sabiha Gökçen in Istanbul From there to Schiphol Amsterdam and back.

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A hard start that tells us that the Carian Trail is not an easy one. Today we hiked from İçmeler to Kumlubük and ended up sleeping at the beach. Hiking and Backpacking in Muğla Turkey is the best thing I have done here so far.

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To walk over a path that's been in use for more than 700 years gets the fantasy going. Ending the day in a antique fortress just topped it off. What a journey! We are loving it! The Bozborun part of the Carian Trail is fantastic!

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Back on the Carian Trail! We start at Selimiye on the Bozburun Peninsula hike and hike high up into the mountains and freeze our butts off during our wild camping night. But, the stunning mountains views made it seem to us to be all worthwhile.

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If you go to Kaunos and feel like a little hike then visit The Acropolis. You will find defence walls in great shape, storage places, barracks and more. At the top you will be rewarded with the most spectacular views of Dalyan, Iztuzu and the river delta.

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Our area has an abundance of olives. That's why we have an olive press from a different era. The one in Ortaca is only a few years old and automated. You get more olive oil out of the olives but all charm is gone if you compare it with an old press.

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The hike from Ufakdere to Boğazcık on the Lycian Way did not turn out as I had expected. Finding water and deciding what to do was the first task of the day. After I made up my mind and took action I ran into two great Turkish guys that saved me from further problems so I hiked with them.

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This hike from Sarıbelen to Gökçeören was the most impressive day so far on The Lycian Way. First the canyon and later the plains with all those old trees made for an extremely special day. And after the steep and tedious climb up from Kalkan the day before - this day was a real treat in comparison.

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Day four on the Lycian Way was difficult. I joined up with an Australian couple for the day after a very rainy start and getting lost we started the down to Gavuragılı. Pete fell and was rescued by Turkish emergency services.

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From where I live it's easy to get to the starting point of the Lycian Way. The bus system in Turkey works fantastic. If you fly in you most likely land at Dalaman airport. Take the bus to Dalaman and from there to Fethiye and you're there.

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Market at Köyceğiz still has that authentic feel to it that I love so much in Turkey. You will find everything that you need - from pots and pans and tools to bed linen and fresh food. There is river boat service available for this Monday market from Dalyan.

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Watersports or Crab-fishing for the kids? A lazy beach chair with a cold drink, or space enough to play soccer? Its all possible on Ekincik beach on the lake in Köyceğiz, Turkey at the end of the road along the docks with all the restaurants.

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In our search of little known Lycian Rock Tombs we not only found more Lycian Rock Tombs than we could imagine, but an old fountain carved out of stone. By Çandır in the Dalyan area you can find more than 100 tombs.

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Every time I see a tinner at work I am fascinated by the process. A copper tin-layered pan is something special where I come from. And here you take your pick and they tin it on the spot for a small price. He is in Hamitköy just outsite Köyceğiz

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Hiking with Mountains and Seas Travel. This time we headed for the mountains, where it's a lot cooler than down in Dalyan. I'm not sure if you can call this a hike but it sure was great fun to go with Sonja.

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Day two of our three day adventure was completely different from day one. The forest seemed greener and had a thick undergrowth. It was a big uphill climb at first, but enough level stretches to give us the breaks we needed.

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A challenging hike around Kocagöl near Dalaman with great scenic viewpoints. This trail is not marked yet, but will be soon. Hiking in Mugla is the absolute best. Check out The ECOtrails of Caria & Lycia Facebook page for more info.

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From the normal mountain road a glimpse of a building could be seen. It turned out to be a restaurant in the making. I just had no clue how to get to it. So it was a time to go on a search mission. It turned out to be a great three hour hike.

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A beautiful hike that is part of section N6 of the ECOtrails. A true mountain hike up in the mountains behind Göcek, Turkey. Packed with stunning views and mountain streams and a waterfall.

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This winter has been one of the wettest ones in a long time here. It started raining in late November and did not stop until some time in late January of 2019. The water so saturated the soil that it started to run off like crazy.

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Once a year the villagers in Çandır are allowed to go into the forest to select a dead tree to remove for firewood. They only have three days to get what they need, so it becomes a truely frenzied spectacle.

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For the past three years Murat Demirci has hiked and cycled extensively to map out trails all over the providence of Mugla and on October 14, 2018 they officially opened

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When the tourist season comes to an end and the weather cools down it is a great time for walking on Iztuzu Beach. Ellis and Timo enjoy a day at the beach with no one else anywhere in sight.

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Starting in Çandır, the village we live in, up over the mountain to a small hidden beach that just has become more accessible since they bulldozed a new road to it.


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We had done the concrete pour for the extended front porch and now it was time to lay some ceramic tiles. We then coud sit out front on the porch at our home in Turkey and enjoy the garden during both winter and summer.

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Ellis joined Sonja and a group of women she guides weekly on hikes in the area. The went from Çandır to Sultaniye Hotsprings this side of Köyceğiz over a mountain trail that is part of Sonja's husbands trail mapping project.

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We used natural mountain stone for the patio floor outside the kitchen and continued with these same heavy stones to create pathways around the garden through the different garden areas and to line the drainage canal.

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We had poured the cement for the front porch with much needed help from friends Gez and Karel from Dalyan, we had done the ceramic tiling and now it was time to build the wooden frame for the roof.

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Ellis shows how to make a German curried tomato ketchup that has a delicious tangy spicy taste. When your neighbor grows tomatoes commercially and sells them to you for so little you can buy many.

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Capers grow in many areas and are usually found on rocky roadsides and other similar locations. Putting up your own little jars of capers will provide your kitchen with jars and jars of these for salads and pastas.


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Our neighbor Efrahim replaced his roof with steel framing, so we bought the old timbers from him for very little. We removed thousands of nails and built a workshop and a chicken coop.

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To have no thoughts at the end of the day is a delight that occurs when hiking in nature. From Kumlubük to Bayırköy on the The Carian Trail was a long one, but one of the best - and finding a 2000 year old tree was very special to us.

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Walking the trail with a big dog makes our day. The Carian Trail hike from Loryma via Karamaka to Kıran Gölü was a great one. The antique fountain had water so we continued camping without worries - the locals say there is always water.

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This day on the Carian Trail was amazing! Fairytale waterfalls, romantic trees and an ancient tomb made this the perfect day. The hike from Bayırköy to Turgutköy is not a hard one but it will take all day so take your time.

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In the late eighteen-hundreds a huge flood swallowed up half the village of Köyceğiz. The people started all over 5 kilometers away where we still find Köyceğiz today. Eski Köyceğiz, (Old Köyceğiz) still gives you an idea of how it must have been.

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To see olive oil oozing out of the olive press with your own hand-picked olives is memorable. Olive oil from an old press makes the best quality oil possible. The modern press cannot equal the aesthetics of this method used in villages for centuries.

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The hike from from Boğazcık to Kaleköy on the The Lycian Way was a long one - we ended up walking 19 kilometers on very rocky terrain. The absolute beauty of this part of the Lycian Way more than made up for it though. The area is full of history in the form of ancient graves and ruins.

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This hiking section of the The Lycian Way is not really all that hard but it is quite long. If you decide to walk to Pınarbası, there is no accommodation there, so you have to walk on to Çukurbağ. Stay on the Lycian Way and just when you are about to give up you will find Eflatun.

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A relaxed day after all the turmoil from the day before it was great to have a peaceful hike. After hiking through the forest in the shade I was rewarded with the view over Patara Beach, my end destination for this week.

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The first day was more than fantastic! Magical views and great rock formations while you slowly leave fast living behind you. Just the thought of walking over a path that is so old makes it a special and very enjoyable experience.

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If you do not like walking in groups or with a guide than this is one of the few great hikes you can do on your own. From Dalyan take the early bus to Kisla, walk to the beach and take the minibus back. As you can see in the video there are a few risky moments.

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I say the road is an accident waiting to happen, others say its perfectly safe. So I filmed it and you can judge for yourself. Please let me know what you think? Kargicak beach is one of the beaches close to Iztuzu beach Dalyan.

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Nothing as relaxing as driving out to a beautiful setting to have a traditional Turkish Breakfast. Today we are in our own village of Çandır, because it is one of the best places in the area to start your day. So, come to breakfast with us.

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Köyceğiz has been improving immensely over the years and even the little beach at the end of the boulevard is getting better. Great place for a swim and a drink or a bite to eat afterwards. No tourist prices there, that's for sure.

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At the beginning of the ECOtrails, this hike is a great one for lovers of Amber trees and rivers. Make sure to bring water shoes for the many water crossings. This trek is especially suitable for the warmer months.

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Waking up with the sound of waves on a pebble beach is pure magic. Revived after a long night sleep we take off for the journey home. The final day camping is the leg from Ekincik- Candir section C4 of the ECOtrails.

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Once a year a coppersmith will come to the village to re-tin pans. Everybody flogs around them and has their traditional pans, that they use over an open wood fire, re-tinned. It made for a great opportunity to see them at work.

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The GoPro7 Action Camera is all you need. The stabilization is awesome and it can do all you need to document your walks, hikes or other outdoor video needs. It will go with us at all times, you can count on that.

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Our Grapefruit tree was loaded with fruit, so we decided to make a concentrate that we could freeze in small containers to make cool refreshing drinks during the warmer weather this coming spring and summer. Let's see how it is done.

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The river and beach cleanup volunteers come across some strange rubbish floating in the water and everyone has a good laugh about it. From coffee tables to inflateable sex toy dolls - they've seen it all one time or another.

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The hike from Kişla to Aşi Bay on the EcoTrails of Caria and Lycia is a must do hike from the village of Kişla in the mountains behind Iztuzu beach to Aşi Bay on the Mediterranean Sea full of spectacular scenery.

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This marked hiking trail from the ECOtrails gives the best views in the Candır area. The marks start and end at the Dalyan rowboats. You can use the ECOTrails app to help you along the way.

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Part of the ECOtrails system is this hike from near the boat docks across the river from Dalyan up and over the mountain on which the Kings Tombs lie to Sultaniye Hot Springs and Mud Bath.

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The ancient city of Kaunos was a major seaport on the south coast of Turkey and the people of Kaunos devised a group of salt pans to collect salt from the sea water that washed the shores at Iztuzu Beach to export.

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Ellis loaded Timo into the crate on her motorbike and headed off to the beach in Ekincik which is about a 40 minute drive from our house in Turkey through spectacular mountain scenery. Timo loves going on the motorbike.

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When Ellis's sister arrived from Holland they decided to camp out a location that was known as Jimmy's Beach on Köyceğiz Lake. It is now called Akdeniz Camping and serves BBQ and other foods and drinks on site.

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Most everyone takes their car to go grocery shopping, but often we get on a boat that crosses Köyceğiz Lake to the town of the same name to go to their weekly outdoor market. It is an amazing way of doing the weekly shopping.

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We live in a small village house in Turkey by the sea. We had a shell of walls, roof, and doors/windows put up then finished the rest ourselves. It is a traditional village house with modern amenities.

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A fast search on Amazon shows a small 4 ounce bottle of St. Johns Wort Red oil costing 29.95 you may want to make larger amounts for yourself for practically nothing - Ellis can show you how.

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If you have access to lots of lemons watch this video for a great way to save fresh lemon juice for making tasty cold lemonaide all summer long - even after all the trees are bare of fruit.

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Sometimes you just have to get up early for a great reward. To see the sun rise over Alagöl, our lake at Çandır, is one of those magical moments. A lack of human made structures and the absolute silence makes it an extremely unique place.

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The Carian Trail in Muğla is getting better and better. We enter the real rural Turkey and find ourselves scrambling amongst the most beautiful rock formations. The stretch from Bayırköy to Taşlıca was very long.

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Hiking The Carian Trail in Muğla, Turkey from Kıran Gölü to Söğüt is an endless stony stretch with the most spectecular views. At the end my toes felt like they were chewed on by a dog - pitching a tent on a private beach made it all good.

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From Turgut to Hisarönü was one of the easier stretches of the Carian Trail so far. It also marked the end of the first leg 'The Bozborun Peninsula'. The trail winds through a lesser known unspoiled region that is full of colour and tradition.

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Coming to Turkey from an over organised country like Holland it's sometimes hard to understand how things work here. A lack of qualified goverment workers and the absence of structure makes life sometimes more difficult than necessary.

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Every two years the village is buzzing with activity from the olive harvest. A small army of people go up into the mountains to harvest their olives by hand, to make it into high quality cold press olive oil. All part of Turkish village life.

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The hike from From Kaleköy to Demre on The Lycian Way was a surprising one. The remote beaches make it a place you want to stay longer. Demre is a big town, especially after being in nature, so you have a tendency to want to leave as soon as you arrive - which is unfortunate.

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The hike from Çukurbağ to Kaş on The Lycian Way is not a long one in length but can be very time consuming. The descent down to Kaş is not dangerous, but does seems endless. When it has rained, or just afterward you have to be very careful as the path can be quite slippery.

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This hike on the Lycian Way was all about walking the Roman aqueduct. This ancient structure has been fascinating me for a long time and I finally walked it! But, the road to and from it was a prickly one to say the least.

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Start the day at Faralya you will reach Kabak in a few hours. If you do not want to lay on the beach or hang out in Kabak all afternoon you can press on to Alinca. It will make for a beautiful, but long day going uphill with an epic sunset at the end.

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If you ever want your kids to have this great experience while they are in the Dalyan area, contact Sonja Grau from Mountains and Seas Travel at 05336175180. Or book this daytrip via the Mountains and Seas Facebook page.


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The prickly pear cactus fruit and jalapeno pepper jam turned out quite nice. Just the right amount of hot pepper tang to allow the cactus flavor to come through. A great jam for topping off soft cheese spread on a cracker.

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Can kids handle a sea kayak? Sonja needed a extra hand just for safety reasons. The group was small, so a perfect time to show you just how fantastic a sea-kayaking course for kids can be.

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Many people know capers but not everyone is familiar with the caper fruits. The light mustard-like flavor in combination with the vinegar makes it a great addition to pizzas and salads - and preserving them is easy.

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If you are looking for a certain spot with a distinct view, you can come across great finds in the process, but still not find what you were looking for. I still haven't found what I was looking for but sure am having a great time trying

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A great rocky hike with spectacular views over the bays of Göcek. Its not marked yet, so check the EcoTrails app for further details. Go to Mountains and Seas Travel on Facebook for upcoming events .

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Our new neighbor does wonders with wood-turnings in a tiny shop that is no bigger than the average bathroom. It shows that one only need the will and a few tools to create beautiful works in wood.

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On my daily walk I kept finding plastic marker ribbons in trees. So I went on a crusade to understand why and to remove them all. As more and more people discover Candir, they are marking walks with plastic, but it is not the way.

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On one of the best viewpoints was strewn with a load of garbage. Bottles, bags, tins and other rubbish. To make a point I set out to clean it up, but it was gone! So here is a big thumbs up for the Belediye who cleaned it up.

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Every year this otherwise normal meadow transforms into a ocean of Lax Flowered Orchids. The overwhelming expression of color is noticeable from way up on top of the mountain - the way I found it years ago in the first place.

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Spring is in full swing. Time to enjoy it with a hike along fields, mountains and some cracking old village houses. Following a trail along the base of a mountain in a rural area where glimpses of traditional rural village life can be enjoyed...

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The hot springs of Sultaniye in the winter are a completely different experience. If you do not like the loud tourists around you, then Sultaniye is the place to visit.


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As we become more aware of the need to properly dispose of rubbish, the blight its presence causes in nature is more and more obvious. It is a problem reaching epic proportions and is a threat to us all.

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November is the time of year that the pomegranates are ready for harvest. There is special way of cleaning them in order to extract the juice. Then it's time to make a delicious wine as well as freeze some juice for winter.

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A Dutch friend of ours from Dalyan was kind enough to paint a mural on the front wall of our house of a traditional village woman baking bread. Jose van Schellen is talented artist who lives here part-time.

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The Dalyan Riverbums are a volunteer group that goes out on one of the riverboats to the beach or into the delta every Thursday to clean up the river or rubbish left behind on Iztuzu Beach.

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Kaptan June Haimoff sailed to Iztuzu Beach decades ago and eventually was responsible for having the Turkish government make the beach an environmental safe site for loggerhead turtles.

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While our home was being built we rented a house in the Arık Başı area of Dalyan from a Turkish family. The wife was named Sezer - a very delightful little woman that was always cooking something delicious in her outdoor kitchen.

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After having recieved a jar of Zeytinyagli Zahter from a Turkish friend I decided to see if I could make it myself from our own garden herbs and first press / cold press olive oil from our olive trees.

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Our neighbor sells tomatoes commercially and so sells us cratefuls of these incredibly delicious Turkish tomatoes for almost nothing. So Ellis dries enough in the sun to last all winter.

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Ellis shows the steps to follow in doing decorative mosaic wall decoration on the edge of the front porch of our home. She has done quite a few large mosaics and has given mosaic workshops.


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